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Photography: Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution Sugimoto — who himself has travelled through Italy in to shoot new additions for his Theatres series — visited sites the Japanese missionaries stopped on their journey in the 16th century, including the Duomo in Florence, the Pantheon in Rome and the Leaning Tower of Pisa. This little known period of history sheds new light on the relationship and cultural exchange between Japan and the West.

Gates of Paradise 9 — David, , by Hiroshi Sugimoto, gelatin silver print. Other works date back as far as the 13th century. Sugimoto has also redesigned the garden at the Japanese Society, with large bonsai and ceramic tiles imported from Kyoto; between November, he will be staging his own Noh play in the auditorium.

Pieta by Michelangelo, , by Hiroshi Sugimoto, gelatin silver print. My cabin's about two miles north of here, as the crow flies. If you want to go back with me, you'll be welcome. If not, I'll say have a good trip to Detroit.

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He died in the prison on the island of Ischia in a allied air raid. Recently the remains of what many consider to be the Campus Sceleratus the evil fields were dug along the via 20 settembre, near the Porta Pia. Campus Sceleratus was where Vestal Virgins who broke the vow of chastity were buried alive.

This was a gate along with the Porta Clausa and Porta Principalis Dextra were primarily used for military access to the Castro Pretorio, the Praetorian camp set up by the Emperor Tiberius in the 1st century. Constantine disbanded the Praetorian guards in the 4th century. Porta Tiburtina on the via Tiburtina very close to the Termini Train Station is one of the oldest gates in the city. The Arch was restored several times in the 1st and 2nd centuries as testified by the dedications still visible over the arch.

This photo is of the gate from the inside of the wall. It is the better side for photographs. The exterior entrance to the gate is the more important side but it is obscured by a protective iron gate. The top channel for the Aqua Julia is dedicated to Augustus. The dedication lists the accomplishments of Augustus Pontifex Maximus, Council for the 12th time, Tribune for the Plebs for the 19th time, imperator for the 13th time and how he restored the channels of all the aqueducts in 5 BC.

Caracalla claims, after his many titles, to have repaired the Aqua Tepula by cleaning the source and cutting through mountains to bring the new Aqua renamed Antoniniana, after himself, of course. Titus lists all his political achievements and claims the restoration of the Aqua Marcia after it was destroyed by time and restored back to good use.

Yes, this is the Basilica that purports to contain the tomb, the relics and the iron grill that caused the death of Saint Lawrence in the year The bull skull motif was brought back as a decorative motif by Andrea Palladio in the 16th century. One last note about the Porta Tiburtina. This is the site where in the populist leader Cola di Rienzo won his biggest victory against the wealthy Barons of Rome. This was the first populist revolt in Rome in over years.

Cola di Rienzo was run out of Rome soon after the fight at the Porta Tiburtina. He came back in but the same mob he once led against the wealthy class turned on him and killed him as he tried to escape. This is not only the best preserved 1st century city gate but also a great example of how the aqueducts were integrated into the city walls. Two sources of water, the Aqua Claudia and the Anio Novus both ran through this arch. The arch and the Aqueduct system was fortified in and incorporated into the Aurelian Wall fortifications.

The columns holding up the pediments between the arches look eroded by time, but according to Yale Art Historian Diana E. Kleiner they were created this way back in the 1st century as a design choice by Claudius. It was kind of modern art of the 1st century. Over the years the arch was restored by Emperor Vespasian and then his son, Emperor Titus.

The Latin inscriptions on the attic are dedications by Claudius, Vespasian and Titus on how they built and repaired the arch, paying all expenses with their own money. In 71 AD, Vespasian adds that he too, at his own expense, restored the confluence of the Aqueducts that had fallen to disrepair for nine years. In 81 AD, the Emperor Titus added, also at his own expense, that he further repaired and restored the structure that was built by Claudius and repaired by his father Vespasian.

Behind Porta Maggiore is the Tomb of the Baker, the burial tomb of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces , a former slave who became a freeman and then a very wealthy baker. Even though it sits next to the Porta Maggiore, it predates the arch by close to years.

This along with the Pyramid of Cestius at Porta San Paolo is one of the best preserved funerary monuments of ancient Rome. When it was built, the Tomb of the Baker sat a fairly good distance outside of the Servian Wall. When Aurelian incorporated the Arch of Claudius and the confluence of aqueducts into his new Porta Maggiore, the Tomb of the Baker remained outside the gate, but just barely.

The Basilica was built on the location of the Praetorian Guards since the time of Emperor Tiberius in the 1st century. When Constantine disbanded the Praetorians in the 4th century he claimed the site for his Villa where he lived with his mother, Helen.

Castrense Amphitheater Follow the road past the Basilica and take a left turn on the via Nola. It was the second largest amphitheater next to the coliseum in Rome. If you walk along the Viale Castrense near Santa Croce in Gerusalemme you can still see the curve of the large amphitheater.

The original gate was just a small opening used by farmers on donkeys coming into the city. The twin towers that flank the gate were added in the 5th century when the Basilica of St John in Lateran became the Papal seat of Rome in the 4th century. This was the Gate where, in , General Flavius Belisarius entered an exhausted and badly beaten Rome. The Gothic wars of was the longest onslaught against the fortifications of Rome.

The forces of the Eastern Roman Emperor Justinian I under the command of Belisarius held the city from the attacking Goths, but on December 17, , while Belisarius was fighting the Goths outside the walls, Totila and his army of Ostrogoths came through the Porta Asinaria. As in the breach of the Porta Salaria, some disloyal and disgruntled Roman soldiers opened the gate for Totila.

The city was sacked and plundered until the reinforcements of Byzantine troops arrived and put them on the run. Pope Gregory accompanied Robert Guiscard south to Salerno. Both Guiscard and Pope Gregory died a year later, 2 months apart. It was restored again in The Donkey Gate is now one of the prettiest gates in Rome. Civic architectural renewal was popular with the Popes of the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries.

The credit for the Porta San Giovanni usually goes to Giacomo della Porta, although some argue it was actually Giacomo del Duca, an architect who collaborated with Michelangelo on the Porta Pia in Porta San Giovanni commands some of the worst auto traffic in the city. According to the believers, on this night, the earth is filled with strange magic powers.

Herbs picked on this night have super powers. At one time Romans would light bondfires by the gate to scare her away. These days there is just a candle lit procession, sometimes led by the Pope. Snail vendors set up their booth in front of the Basilica of San Giovanni. The explanation is that the horns of the slugs represented conflict, antagonism and hatred.

By eating them, the person would consume and digest all the resentment, cleaning themselves of all hostility. Enemies would become friends after a good bowl of stewed snails. As traffic in Rome became more congested, the Gate was completely removed and replaced with 4 large arches over the streets leading in and out of the Piazzale Metronia.

It one of the best Byzantine Churches in Rome. Pomerium Porta Metronia The walk along the wall from Porta Metronia to Porta Latina is along a peaceful park filled with families and joggers. The park was once the ancient Pomerium, a sacred space inside the wall protected by gods, demons and other supernatural powers.

It was forbidden to build structures or carry weapons in the Pomerium. Legend states that Remus was killed by his brother Romulus for carrying weapons through the Pomerium. These days, the laws of the Pomerium along the Aurelian Wall are still maintained. There are no dwellings, no buildings and no weapons. There is a sign posted explaining to all visitors that they are entering a sacred Pomerium. According to the early Christian historian, Tertulian, the Porta Latina is where St John the Evangelist survived his martyrdom of being boiled in oil in the year Not wanting to give the Romans another try, John packed up and moved to the island of Patmos.

It was on the island where he created the Book of Revelation, commonly known as the Book of the Apocalypse. Although many modern day Christian Fundamentalists believe the Apocalypse is imminent, for John the Evangelist, it actually happened. John was born in the year He witnessed the destruction of Jerusalem in He lived through the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum in It is understandable how he thought the Whore of Babylon was Rome itself.

It might have also had something to do with the food, wine and herbs he was consuming on the island of Patmos. Like the rest of the wall, the height of the gate wall and towers were doubled at the beginning of the 5th century, However, the gate itself was actually lowered to accommodate a sliding armored door, a new feature at the time. Porta San Sebastiano Porta San Sebastiano is the largest of the Aurelian gates and the only gate that allows you inside, up to the towers and along the walls.

In it all reopened and the views are incredible. The rest of the museum includes photos and explanations of how the walls were built and restored. The ancient looking mosaics on the floor inside the Porta San Sebastiano are from the 20th century. He was taken into a forest and executed. Originally named Porta Appia, the gate opened onto the via Appia Antica, one of the 1st of the great ancient Roman highways.

These massive remains still decorate the road. Ghibellines were loyal followers of the Holy Roman Emperor. Guelphs were loyal to the Pope. Wars between these two political factions lasted from the 11th through the 14th centuries. It was basically an age old rivalry between the Houses of Bavaria and Swabia.

The Guelphs from Bavarian Welfs were wealthy merchant families in larger cities. The Ghibellines from the Waiblingen, the ancestral home of the Hohenstraufen Swabians were mostly land owners near smaller cities. Things got even more confusing when the seat of the Papacy moved from Rome to Avignon, France between and In a greatly embarrassed Charles V came to Rome in an attempt to smooth things over with the Vatican.

This was the first major naval defeat of the Ottomans. However, home in Rome the victory was celebrated for home boy Marcantonio Colonna. Arch of Drusus It was a traditional Roman Tribute that included chained Turkish prisoners in tow. This was the last traditional Roman Triumph that included prisoners in chains. Drusus took the title of Germanicus after conquering the German tribes north of the Rhine. In a true moment of historical irony, the victorious Drusus Germanicus fell off his horse while subjugating the conquered Germans and died shortly after.

It seems appropriate that Drusus Germanicus would have a triumph in Rome after his great victory, but most historians believe the Arch is actually part of the 2nd century Aqua Marcia built by the Emperor Caracalla to bring in more water to his baths a short walk down the road. You can buy your tickets 5 euros from inside the Museo delle Mura inside of the Porta San Sebastiano. However, Scipio Africanus was never buried here, nor was his adopted grandson, Scipio Aemilianus, the victorious General of the 3rd and last war with Carthage.

The one on display in the Tomb is a very good copy. The columbarium underground burial vault is from the 3rd century BC. It is a small quadrangular room dug into the soft tufa stone filled with alcoves for funerary urns. In the center there is a large circular pillar, also used for funerary urns of Scipio family members. A little further down the road is the Parco degli Scipioni, a small park with a few swings for children, a walk for dogs and strange looking shed that from first appearance looks like a tool shed.

It is in fact the entrance to the Hypogeum Columbarium of Pomponio Hylas, a 1st century freedman who used the Columbarium for himself, his wife Pomponia and his family. The Columbarium was built and used between AD. In one of the later funerary altars of the Hylas Colombarium is the funerary urn of a woman named Paezusa. In life she was the hair dresser ornatrix to Claudia Octavia, the daughter of the Emperor Claudius and his 3rd wife Messalina and the 1st wife of the Emperor Nero.

He killed her and sent her head to his girlfriend, Poppaea. Nero killed Poppaea by accident a few years later. The guided tours are in Italian. Barbarians were lurking at the fringes when Rome clawed its way to power, and they were in on its last gasping breaths in the West.

Imperial conflict with barbarians persisted for more than years and shaped Rome in profound ways. This Romanizing, voluntary or not, of people absorbed within imperial boundaries paid dividends to Romans and barbarians alike. When the Goths, driven by the Huns, pushed on the boundaries of the empire in the fourth century, Rome struck a deal. In exchange for refuge, the Goths would serve Rome. But the relationship soon soured, and in Eastern Roman Emperor Valens was killed at Adrianople, Thracia present-day Edirne, Turkey , trying to contain the thankless guests.

Unconquered and unassimilated, the Goths remained a barbarian nation within the imperial borders. The consequences for Rome were profound. At the Gates of Rome examines those tumultuous times.